South Goa in a Nutshell

15 min readMar 21, 2024

In November 2008, I made my first business trip to Mumbai. Since then I’ve been visiting India regularly. 2013 I went to South Goa for the first time. Since then I’ve been trying to relax in Goa from time to time. In this blog I summarise my experiences, best practices for this lovely spot in India including food, drinks, transport, temples, forts, bridges and last but not least beaches!

Food

Seafood: Goa is renowned for its delicious seafood and offers a culinary experience that is as varied as it is flavorful. With its long coastline along the Arabian Sea, Goa boasts an abundance of fresh seafood, from fish and prawns to crabs and mussels. The state’s unique blend of Indian and Portuguese influences is reflected in its cuisine, with traditional dishes such as fish curry, prawn fry and vindaloo showcasing the rich flavors and spices of the region. Seafood is an integral part of Goan culture, and local markets and fishing villages offer a glimpse of the state’s vibrant fishing industry. From beach shacks and street stalls to fine dining, Goa offers a wide range of dining options to suit all tastes and budgets.
Goan fish curry or the Xitti Kodi is the staple diet of every Goan making it a famous food of Goa. The Goan fish curry is loaded with various spices along with coconut. Raw mango is also used to give the dish a tangy flavour. The main ingredients of the dish are a decent-sized Pomfret and raw mango. Instead of Pomfret, Kingfish may also be used. This Goan dish is served along with rice.
Sorpotel: ‘Soro’ is a Konkani word that translates to alcohol or liquor. Sorpotel (also known as sarapatel) is a famous food of Goa. Pork and beef or mutton liver are used for this dish. The meat is parboiled, and the fat is fried. Onions, garlic and the masala prepared are added along with other spices and herbs. Sorpotel can be consumed any time of the day; however, some people prefer it to have it for breakfast.
Chicken Xacuti consists of poppy seeds and Kashmiri red chilies. This is yet another Portuguese influenced famous Goan food. Goan curry consists of chicken, potatoes, onions, coconuts, chilies, and other spices. Kashmiri chilies are specifically used as they give intense hot flavor and give color to the dish. This is one of the most popular Goan Food.
Pork Vindaloo: The dish gets its name from ‘vin’, that is short for vinegar and ‘ahlo’, which means garlic in Portuguese. The prominence of potato in Indian dishes transformed the word ahlo into aloo, hence the name Vindaloo. The dish is made from spices and vinegar mixed with pork, onions, chilies, and other ingredients.

Remarks: The food in Goa can be spicy and for Europeans maybe even too spicy. You can always ask to reduce the spice level to your preference. By the way that’s not a challenge for myself as I can handle even the spicier dishes like a Vindaloo.

Drinks

Sweet Lime Soda: This delightful beverage is made from freshly squeezed sweet limes, soda water, and sugar or salt to taste. It is a perfect thirst quencher on a hot day and is widely available at beach shacks, restaurants, and street vendors. Sweet Lime Soda is a versatile drink that can be enjoyed sweet, salty, or a combination of both, depending on one’s preference. It is often served with ice and garnished with a slice of lime.
Kokum Juice: It’s a refreshing and healthy beverage made from the dried rind of the kokum fruit, which is native to Goa. Kokum juice is known for its tangy and sweet taste, as well as its cooling and hydrating properties. Kokum juice is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, and has various health benefits, such as improving digestion, boosting immunity, and preventing dehydration.
Feni is a popular alcoholic drink in Goa. It is a spirit typically made from either cashew or coconut. Cashew feni is made from the fermented juice of cashew apples, while coconut feni is made from the sap of toddy palms. Feni has a distinct, pungent smell and a unique taste. It is often enjoyed on its own or as a base for cocktails.
Urrak: It’s a traditional Goan drink made from the first distillate of cashew feni. Urrak is a seasonal drink that is available only during the cashew harvest season, from March to May. Urrak is a clear, light, and refreshing drink that has a fruity and floral aroma and a mild alcoholic content.
King’s Beer: “The” local beer brand in Goa. Kingfisher is everywhere, but if you can spot a King’s I recommend ordering it. This beer’s got that crisp factor and a smoky malt aroma that’s seriously something else.

Remarks: First of all, “Don’t drink and drive!” Besides that as an European you have to decide if you trust the ice. Personally I never had a problem with my stomach, but who knows …

Transport

Scooter: Renting a scooter in South Goa is a popular and convenient way to explore the region’s beautiful beaches, scenic countryside, and charming villages. Many tourists prefer to rent a scooter as it provides the freedom and flexibility to travel at their own pace and discover off-the-beaten-path destinations. Scooter rentals are widely available in South Goa, with many local shops and rental agencies offering a range of options at competitive prices. To rent a scooter, you will need a valid driver’s license and may be required to provide a deposit or credit card information. It is advisable to inspect the scooter before renting and to wear a helmet while riding for safety (and police checks).
Auto-rickshaw: An auto-rickshaw, is a popular mode of transportation in Goa. These three-wheeled vehicles are typically used for short distances and can be a convenient and affordable way to get around. Be aware that in remote locations you might not be able to get one easily.
Taxi: If you prefer a more comfortable and convenient way to travel you can opt for a taxi service. Taxis are available at the airport, railway stations, bus stands, and major tourist spots. You can also book a taxi online or by phone through various apps and platforms. Taxis are generally metered and charge according to the distance and time of travel. However, some taxi drivers may try to negotiate a fixed fare with you, especially during peak season or at night. It is advisable to insist on using the meter or to agree on a reasonable price before boarding. Taxis can also be hired for a full day or half day to explore different attractions in South Goa.

Remarks: I typically rent a scooter for my stay because that gives you a lot of flexibility. Gas you can get at petrol stations, but on top of this a lot of small shops sell petrol in bottles and it’s only slightly more expansive than at the gas station. I really love the signs on the roads giving advise around driving.

Airports

The Goa International Airport, also known as the Dabolim Airport (GOI), is the main airport in Goa and handles both domestic and international flights. The airport is located near the town of Vasco da Gama and is about 30 km from the state capital, Panaji. The airport has a single terminal that is divided into two sections: one for domestic flights and one for international flights. From GOI it will take you approx. 1:30h to Agonda by car.
The new Mopa Airport (GOX), also known as the Greenfield International Airport, is a new airport in North Goa that is operational since 2023. The airport has two runways, a passenger terminal, and a cargo terminal. From GOX it will take you approx. 2:15h to Agonda by car.

Remarks: Be careful about which of those you arrive or depart. If you plan to stay in Agonda I recommend travelling via GOI!

Beaches

Agonda Beach, is a serene coastal paradise known for its pristine shores, tranquil ambiance, and natural beauty. Agonda Beach is a peaceful retreat for travelers seeking a respite from the bustling city life. With its expansive stretch of golden sand, clear blue waters, and swaying palm trees, Agonda Beach offers a picturesque setting where visitors can unwind, soak in the sun, and enjoy the soothing sounds of the ocean waves. The beach is less crowded compared to other popular beaches in Goa, allowing for a more intimate and relaxed experience. The beach also serves as a popular spot for watching the sunset, with the sky transforming into a canvas of vibrant hues.
Remarks: Agonda is the place where I usually stay in one of the beach huts. The beach is very nice, clean and not too crowded. There are often cows around, which makes for some nice pictures. In Agonda I strongly recommend visiting Bobby’s Bar (https://maps.app.goo.gl/W31LK8WyqmWYVaiTA). Bobby and Shalu are very nice and friendly hosts who will take care of you. You’ll also find a lot of Europeans and Indians mixing, and I even bumped into a colleague who works for the same company as me, but in Bangalore office. There is much more to say about Agonda, but that I spare for a separate blog.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/aE293xwynfJyiUcx9

Cola Beach is a hidden gem known for its unspoiled beauty, serene ambiance, and natural charm. Nestled between lush green hills and the Arabian Sea, Cola Beach offers a tranquil retreat for travelers seeking a peaceful escape from the bustling city life. With its secluded stretch of golden sand, clear blue waters, and swaying palm trees, Cola Beach provides a picturesque setting where visitors can unwind, soak in the sun, and enjoy the soothing sounds of the ocean waves. The beach is less crowded compared to other popular beaches in Goa, allowing for a more intimate and relaxed experience. Cola Beach is ideal for swimming, sunbathing, or simply immersing oneself in the natural beauty of the surroundings. The beach also features a stunning lagoon, where visitors can take a refreshing dip or explore the diverse marine life. Additionally, visitors can rent a kayak and go up the river, adding an element of adventure to their beach experience.
Remarks: There are two options to get to Cola beach by Scooter. The “road” from the crossing after the Shree Gramdev Laxminarayan Temple on road 49 in the direction of Cabo de Rama is quite long, partly steep, and bumpy. In addition, parking will cost you 50 Rs. for a Scooter. The other alternative is to turn left at the Sunshine Restaurant on road 49. Once you park your Scooter (for free) you can hike down to the beach. The condition of the road is much better and the good news is that there are signs to show you the way.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/9NmaZjRxVdbfHkjs8

Palolem Beach attracts tourists from all over the world, who come to enjoy its natural beauty, friendly atmosphere, and diverse culture. The beach has a laid-back vibe, with live music, parties, and festivals happening throughout the year.
Remarks: Palolem is the most touristy beach in the Cancona region, but still worth a visit. There are many shops in the village. You can get all the souvenirs you need, but don’t forget to bargain. I recommend having a cocktail at one of the beach bars with your feet in the sand and watching the sun go down.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/hM9fKaMzJJ9yAGHC8

Patnem Beach is a beautiful and serene beach located in the Canacona region of South Goa, India. It is known for its calm waters, soft sand, and relaxed atmosphere. The beach is less crowded than some of the more popular beaches in Goa, making it an ideal spot for those seeking a peaceful and tranquil beach experience. Visitors can enjoy swimming, sunbathing, and a variety of water sports, as well as a range of dining options at the beach shacks and restaurants lining the shore.
Remarks: Nice place to stroll around and enjoy a Sweet Lime Soda in one of the restaurants. Not as busy as Palolem beach, but you have restaurants and shops all around.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/iEEbaovtzwoc1cvB6

Cabo de Rama Beach is a secluded and picturesque beach located in the Canacona region. Named after the nearby Cabo de Rama Fort, the beach is known for its stunning natural beauty, with rocky cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and swaying palm trees. The beach is relatively quiet and less crowded than some of the more popular beaches in Goa. Visitors can enjoy swimming, sunbathing, and exploring the nearby fort, which offers breathtaking views of the surrounding coastline.
Remarks: I recommend buying a fresh coconut once you arrive at the cliff and enjoy it once you hike down to the beach. It’s the perfect spot to be after a visit at the fort to cool down and relax. Nowadays there is even a restaurant at the beach.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/iWdXb4M4QLxSKJqWA

Kakolem Beach, also known as Tiger Beach, is a secluded and picturesque beach. It is known for its stunning natural beauty, with rocky cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and swaying palm trees. The beach is relatively quiet and less crowded than some of the more popular beaches in Goa.
Remarks: Last time I visited Kakolem they charged a toll for the road, besides that it’s a short hike from the parking lot to the beach. Very small, but nice location including a restaurant. Definitely not crowded at all.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/c9r62soMcms5nQ1q7

Galgibaga Beach is a serene and unspoiled beach located in Canacona. Known for its natural beauty, the beach boasts golden sands, clear waters, and lush greenery. Galgibaga is also one of the few beaches in Goa that serves as a nesting ground for the endangered Olive Ridley turtles, making it an important conservation site. The beach is relatively quiet and less crowded. Visitors can enjoy swimming, sunbathing, and taking leisurely walks along the shore.
Remarks: To get to Galgibaga, I recommend not taking the main road, but the small village road from Cancona. You’ll also cross the Sadolxem bridge on this route. The beach itself is one of my favorites. Not crowded at all and extremely beautiful! I also highly recommend a visit to the Surya Beach Cafe Galgibagh (https://maps.app.goo.gl/Rba5WpT8sMeE3GQd7). They serve fresh seafood and prepare it to your choice. They are famous for king crabs and even oysters (if you dare). It’s also recommended by Gordon Ramsey (at least according to some signs). They also have bodyboards and if there are waves you can try to ride them.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/F9eumzMFFwTLP5rU6

Butterfly Beach is not easily accessible by road, adding an element of adventure to the beach experience. Visitors can either trek through the forest or take a boat ride from Agonda or Palolem to reach the beach. Instead of trekking you can take a Jeep ride. The journey offers scenic views of the surrounding coastline and the chance to spot dolphins along the way.
Remarks: On Butterfly beach you won’t find butterflies, but rather the shape looks like a butterfly. In the past this beach was only accessible by boat. The hike will take about 20min. Nowadays with the road and the Jeep service it’s getting crowded and polluted as the beach is small and they sell drinks.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/WL4zCq2XpSWEM6Hy9

Xandrem beach is known for its clean and soft sand, clear and calm waters, and swaying palm trees. The beach is not crowded and not commercialized at all, making it an ideal spot for those seeking a quiet and tranquil beach experience.
Remarks: This beach is only accessible by boat. Even though Google Maps shows some tracks, they are blocked because it’s private property. The owner takes it seriously and has dogs. I tried three times to find a way but failed every time.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Y6BkLJ346JZ6Uck59)

Polem Beach, located in the southernmost part of Goa, With its pristine stretch of golden sand, clear blue waters, and swaying palm trees. The beach is less crowded compared to other popular beaches in Goa, allowing for a more intimate and relaxed experience. Polem Beach is ideal for swimming, sunbathing, or simply immersing oneself in the natural beauty of the surroundings. The beach also offers opportunities for dolphin watching and fishing, adding an element of adventure to the beach experience.
Remarks: This beach is the last one before the boarder to Karnataka and still not touristic at all.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/xoxoNK9N15MmPjMs7

Temples

Shri Shantadurga Kunkallikarin Temple is a Hindu temple located in Fatorpa. It is dedicated to the goddess Shantadurga, who is revered as the goddess of peace. The temple is known for its beautiful architecture, featuring intricate carvings and a blend of Indian and Portuguese styles. The temple also hosts several festivals and celebrations, including the annual Shishirotsav or Shigmo festival.
Remarks: Biggest temple in Cancona region. If you have limited time I would recommend to visit this temple, especially if there is a festival going on.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/ve1ozM57ywwxd7CF7
Parvati Temple, located in Mallikarjun, is a sacred and ancient temple dedicated to Lord Mallikarjun, an incarnation of Lord Shiva, and Goddess Parvati, his consort. The temple is believed to date back to the 16th century and is one of the oldest temples in Goa. The temple is known for its exquisite architecture, featuring intricate carvings, colorful paintings, and a blend of Hindu and Christian styles.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/zWsBYHRK7uJDuCVo9
Shri Damodara Temple Loliem, located in the village of Loliem, is a revered Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Damodara, an incarnation of Lord Krishna. The temple hosts various festivals and celebrations, attracting large crowds of devotees and visitors. Shri Damodara Temple Loliem stands as a sacred sanctuary, offering a peaceful retreat for spiritual seekers and a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of Goa.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/SEfbiDxkYZ1WsFaw5

Bridges

Sadolxem Bridge: This bridge is small and narrow and only one vehicle can cross at a time. The bridge is made of metal and it’s very popular for photo shoots. The blue colour of the bridge and the green colour of the surroundings complement each other very well.
Remarks: The scenery is impressive and you should definitely stop and take some pictures.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Y3VwTTXqjVNMzrZu7
Assolna Bridge: Is a crucial link connecting the vibrant towns of Assolna and Cavelossim. Spanning the tranquil Sal River, this bridge serves as a vital artery for locals and tourists alike, facilitating seamless transportation and commerce in the region. Its architectural elegance and strategic location not only ensure efficient connectivity but also offer breathtaking vistas of the surrounding natural beauty.
Remarks: The bridge is modern, but you can stop in the middle and get a nice view of the river and spot some boats.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/EM2fmbVHZXgW5hURA

Forts

Cabo de Rama Fort: The fort is named after Lord Rama, the hero of the Hindu epic Ramayana, who is believed to have stayed there during his exile. The fort has a long and turbulent history, having been occupied by various rulers, such as the Hindu kings, the Portuguese, and the British. The fort offers a panoramic view of the Arabian Sea and the surrounding coastline.
Remarks: Big fort with lots of walls and cannons. You can even walk down to a beach (very small and full of rubbish). There are monkeys in the trees, so try to spot them. Please note that in summer it can be very hot around midday, so I recommend visiting in the morning or late afternoon. There is a church inside the Fort and you can attend services on Sundays.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/PR8xGhQuwpRRWS3P9

Betul Fort: It’s a ruined and abandoned fort located in the village of Betul. The fort was built by the Portuguese in the 17th century, as a defense against the Maratha invaders. The fort was later captured by the British in the 18th century, and eventually fell into decay and neglect. The fort is now in a dilapidated state, with only a few remnants of its walls and bastions remaining.
Remarks: The view from Betul Fort is very impressive. Apart from some ruins, a cannon and a small temple, there is not much to see. On the way you will pass through a nice small village with beautiful, tiny houses.
Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/DxGwooYgWRaGng4eA

So you have reached the end of this blog. Surely there are more places to visit and I still have some in my backlog (waterfalls, wildlife sanctuary, more beaches, restaurants, etc.). Stay tuned …